Check for a broken wire coming out of the plug. If the tester is lighting now and didn’t light using the vehicle plug’s ground, then you need to ground the tow vehicle plug. If not, then ground your tester to the tailpipe (the hitch sometimes has too much paint on it to get a ground) or steel bumper and re-test. If all functions are working, move on to the next step. On a 7-way, left turn/brake is at “9:00” and right turn/brake is at “3:00” and running lights are at “11:00” or above the left turn. On a 4 way, tail lights are the brown wire, yellow and green are left and right turn/brake respectively. Turn on running lights and a turn signal and test by putting your stick tester to the terminals. This is the “male” post on a 4 or 5-way flat plug, or at roughly “7 o’clock” as you look into the 7-way plug typically included in factory hitch packages. Unplug your trailer and connect your light tester “ground” to the tow vehicle ground terminal. The ground problem could be on the tow vehicle or trailer, but sometimes you can get a sporadic ground through the hitch ball and coupler connection, although it isn’t a stable enough ground to rely on for lighting and electric brakes. Are any running lights flashing? If so, and you have already checked the bulbs and wiring on the previous step, then you probably have a bad ground. Do another walk around and check each turn signal. With the running lights still on, turn your ignition key enough to operate turn signals and put it in “left” or “right” turn (NOT hazard flashers). On most trailer lights, 14 to 16 gauge wire is sufficient. If any wires are exposed, then replace that section with new, insulated wire. Pull the housing away and make sure the wire(s) are run through the provided channel behind the light to avoid smashing them on re-install. Most lights are connected to the trailer with ¼” bolts and will require a 7/16” wrench to loosen the nuts. A tail light wire could have been crushed behind the housing during installation, but the inevitable short may not surface for long periods of time, perhaps when moisture gets behind the light and completes the circuit. This is a common problem, prevalent on new trailers. Next check behind the tail lights, and then behind each marker light to see if the hot leads to any of them might be crushed between the light housing and the trailer frame from improper installation. This will create a dead short when a turn signal or brake is used with the running lights on, and can also result in all marker lights blinking or illuminating along with the turn signals or brake lights. If the bulb is only “half-twisted” in, then both filaments will light, as the bulb’s two contacts will touch both tail-light prongs.
The industry standard for trailer tail lights is an “1157″ bulb, which is installed by pushing into the light socket and twisting it so that both contacts rest on the tail-light prongs.
If your tow vehicle blows a fuse during this phase, first remove your trailer tail-light lenses and check for blown bulbs (usually black or creamy white inside if blown), and also check to make sure the bulb is in correctly. Do a walk around the trailer and check to see if all lights are lit. I recommend doing this with the hitch not connected to the trailer coupler, for reasons we will explain later. And they typically cost less than ten bucks.įirst, with the trailer wiring plugged into your tow vehicle, turn on your running lights. Plug testers are available for all types of trailer plugs, but a stick tester can be used on any receptacle and can test wiring between connections. I recommend a 12 volt stick-tester to check your wiring and plug for continuity as the first step in any electrical repair. Diagnosing the root of the problem early in the process is the key. For most consumers, trailer wiring repair can be a frustrating experience.
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